Bangkok’s Little India
A Sikh temple and a market in a corner of Bangkok evoke memories of everything that travellers associate with the Indian subcontinent
Grocery stores, such as this one, sell everything from spices, cooking oil, sari and bangles to newspapers, film magazines, VCDs and DVDs that are imported from India.
pahurat
The aromatic smell of spices and freshly cooked breads told me I was heading in the right direction, towards the Indian district of Pahurat, better known as Bangkok’s Little India.
A short walk from Chinatown, it is home to a thriving Indian community made up largely of Hindus and Sikh who have been living there for generations, actually since Pahurat Road was constructed in 1898 and named after Somdet Chaofah Pahurat Maneemai, the son of King Rama V.
Pahurat is where tailors come to buy raw materials – cloth, buttons, zips and so forth. And not only them, if you suddenly have the urge to print one thousand invitation cards this is the place to be.
Walking the lanes and by-lanes of this enchanting community, I discovered that Pahurat’s residents are predominantly Sikh. I heard them speak Punjabi, Thai and other Indian dialects. In the back lanes, the strains of Indian music and the savoury aroma of Indian food filled the afternoon air.
It is a well known fact that the best and most affordable Indian cuisine, sweets, clothes, jewellery and accessories can be found here. The Pahurat market on Chakraphet Road attracts both Thai and overseas visitors.
The imposing architecture of Sri Guru Singh Sabha Sikh Temple evokes images of a palace than a place of worship. It serves as both a religious hub and meeting point for ethnic Indians in Thailand. The Soi Pratu Lek (Iron Gate) Indian community, a short distance from the Sikh temple, is buzzing with activity, as most Indians still prefer to live side by side their own kind.
Besides the mouth-watering samosas (curry puff) sold at the corner of Soi Pratu Lek Yai near the old ATM department store, you can purchase textiles, statues and pictures of Indian deities, CDs, VCDs, bracelets, trinkets and sandals. What’s more fascinating is that the area behind Pahurat Road, measuring about 200m by 100m, is packed with stalls selling more of what’s displayed on the main streets.
The atmosphere invokes curiosity. So I set out to discover how Little India came about and the role religion played in shaping the lifestyle of its residents.
Since most of the residents are Sikh, I started at the Sri Guru Singh Sabha, a six-storey Sikh temple in the heart of the community.
The temple- a white building trimmed in golden yellow and topped off with a glittering golden dome – dates back to 1932. The top floor houses religious scriptures and a reading hall. It has since undergone several renovations and is reputed to be one of the largest Sikh temples outside India. Gutted by fire, the ATM department store next to it is undergoing a major overhaul so the lane leading to the temple is in a rather messy state.
At the temple, I was introduced to Surin Gulati- a long time parishioner and second generation Thai-Indian. He said, “Very much like the Little Indias in other countries, the one in Bangkok took form because Indians generally like to live with their own kind of people. People from other backgrounds will not understand their culture and traditions.”
Living near a place of worship is also key to the way Indians conduct themselves, he said. At first there were a large number of Thai-Indians residing around the temple. As their number grew, they began relocating to other areas of the city.
Pahurat is popular for its merchandise that is imported from India. Both Sikhs and Hindus go there to buy goodies and other essential items. Surin said the Sikhs migrated here from the Indian states of Rajasthan, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh and Pakistan-occupied Punjab in search of greener pastures. Today many of them are in the textile business in Sampheng and Pahurat districts, but the younger generation are branching out to pursue their own interests and talents.
Asked why Indians have a reputation for being in the textile business, Surin explained that in the past owning a cloth shop in Sampheng was considered prestigious. Since then it has become a trend.
Housewife Rani Bedi, who lives within a stone’s throw from the temple, said that religion is an integral part of an Indian’s day to day life. What’s more, the temple serves as a venue for both prayers and fellowship. The place of worship is open to everyone.
Sikhs are also big on charity work. Two hundred boxes of vegetarian food from a communal kitchen (langar) in the temple compound is given out to people every day at the Old Siam Plaza, a spacious shopping centre with old colonial design that’s in stark contrast to the congestion just across the street.
Being a first-time visitor, I found it interesting observing the congregation of Sikh men with long beards and turbans, and women in traditional costume, their head draped in shawl, listening to the holy scriptures read by a priest.
A second-generation Thai-Indian, Rani has lived in the Pratu Lek area for three decades. Like many Sikhs born in Thailand, she speaks fluent Thai and Punjabi. But I was curious to know if she felt more Thai or Indian. Breaking into a smile, she said that a good part of her felt Thai, largely because she grew up here and had formed close friendships with Thai people. However, her Sikh faith and traditions, which have to an extent become more flexible over the years, made her feel connected to India.
She has observed some major changes in the lifestyle of people living in her community. One of them is the frequency with which women are allowed to refuse marriage proposals, and the liberty to work outside their home.
It is also getting more acceptable for Indian men to marry Thai women, although the same can’t be said of women, who are still expected to marry a man from their own race. What has not changed is the fervour with which Thais of Indian origin follow their traditions in their daily life. Most people prefer to live together – the uncles, aunts and grandparents live under the same roof. Still a constant fixture are the ritual evening tea with the elders, and dropping by to a neighbour’s house for a quick chat before retiring for the day.
Watching Indian DVD movies and listening to music is also a favourite pastime. That is why the Indian market is an integral part of their daily lives. Incense sticks, myrrh, and other items that Indians offer to appease their gods and goddesses can be found here.
The walking tour of Little India was an eventful experience for it gave me an insight into the Indian way of life in Thailand and appreciate the differences found in our society. I must say Pahurat truly offers the tastes, smells and sights of enchanting India on Thai soil.
Bangkok Post 27 april 2006
Smith Place, Chiang Mai
Smith Place, Chiang Mai
Thailand er en af verdens mest populære turistdestinationer. Sidste år kom der næsten 50 procent flere turister end året før.
Yeah, året før var det dårlige Tsunami år, men alligevel en fantastisk stigning på et år.
Jeg bliver tit spurgt om gode rejsetip, og i stedet for at svare jer individuelt, så vil jeg placere dem her på min blog.
Smith Place i Chiang Mai er et fantastisk sted. Et lille hus midt i byen bygget i traditionelt thai teaktræ.
Det er en thaifamilie, der driver Smith Place, og jeg har ingen penge i det, da Smith er Bhuddistisk og betyder ”enlightenment”
Familien laver pragtfuld thaimad til gæsterne, og maden indtages i den dejlige have.
Stedet har tre rene værelser, og værelserne koster hver 390 Baht – cirka 60 kroner – om dagen.
Mine gode venner Anna Winding og Jess Myrthu boede der sidste vinter i ti dage med deres børn og svigerbørn, og Anne betalte forud for ti nætter. Før hun betalte blev hun ved med at spørge ”det er da 1.800 kr. om natten ikke?” men nej det var det ikke, pengene dækkede for hele perioden på 10 dage.
Smith Place er rørende billigt, og en af min gode anbefalinger!
Garden of Eden
One of the Chiang Mai area’s best kept secrets: the Chiang Dao Nest
The husband-and-wife team of Stuart and Wicha Cavaliero – he from Britain, she from Thailand – have opened a charming little guesthouse and restaurant in Chiang Dao surrounded by lush, unspoilt nature.
Chiang Dao is near Doi Luang Chiang Dao, Thailand’s third-highest mountain, and about an hour’s drive from Chiang Mai, making it a great escape from the city’s oppressive heat. Evening temperatures in Chiang Dao are especially comfortable this time of year.
Chiang Dao Nest’s cluster of 11 little bungalows is split between two sites about 1.5 kilometres from Chiang Dao Caves. They are basic, unpretentious and very clean; all sleep two people and are built in the shadow of the mountain.
The Chiang Dao Nest Mini-Resort is quiet and peaceful, the kind of place where guests can sit and read for days.
Between meals, of course. Food is the main attraction, for Wicha is a trained chef who studied and worked in a top-end fusion restaurant in the UK for more than four years before returning to her native country in 2002.
Wicha’s cooking is a veritable “Babette’s Feast”. She uses local produce from hilltribe farmers to make her own pates, cheeses, cakes and breads, and creates exquisite three-course dinners for less than Bt500. Her menu changes nightly.
Main dishes might include duck’s leg with caramelised mango and thyme, buffalo fillet with beet puree and baby onions in red-wine sauce and grilled fish fillet with baby potatoes, gazpacho dressing and fresh parmesan shavings. For dessert are such gastronomic treats as fresh strawberry sorbet, coconut creme brulee and baked American cheesecake with mango coulis.
Guests are drawn to the Chiang Dao Nest by Wicha’s kitchen magic and Stuart’s guided trekking tours up Doi Luang Chiang Dao, with its summit at 2,245 metres. As a result, the Nest is attracting an increasing number of foreign visitors, as well as expatriates from Chiang Mai, who stealthily pass on word about the place like Masonic members sharing a secret handshake.
For more information, visit www.chiangdao.com, a comprehensive website with all sorts of details about this little resort as well as the town of Chiang Dao.
Pim Kemasingki
